The Healthy Cooking Coach

The Great Pumpkin

Are you ready for Halloween? Ready to celebrate the autumn harvest? When I think of autumn I think of pumpkins and winter squashes. I think of apples too; we'll get to them in another post. For now, let's focus on the symbol of Halloween and the ingredient used in Thanksgiving's most popular pie. You know what it is?

It looks like pumpkin, tastes like pumpkin, and it's really squash. Most canned pumpkin actually contains winter squash. That means most pumpkin pies are rally squash pies. Why is that? You can read about that in my previous post. For now, let's look at something else you can make with this valuable vegetable.

If you're looking for a knockout dessert that will wow your family and friends and you want to savor a frozen treat before the weather turns cold (or colder), try this scrumptious recipe. (I don't know where you live. It's still hot during the day here in Phoenix, Arizona, hot enough to run the air conditioner in late October.)

Nourishing Dessert
This delicious wheat-free, gluten-free, dairy-free, soy-free frozen dessert comes packet with vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and friendly fats that help your build healthy cells and tissues, slow down the aging process, and ward of bacteria, viruses, fungi,and degenerative diseases. Who could ask for more?

Cook ahead
You can bake the squash the day or night before you need it. You can blend the ingredients for the recipe, stash them in the fridge all day or overnight, then churn it in your ice cream maker and either serve it straight away or freeze it in 4-, 6-, 8-, or 16- ounce containers for later consumption.

Storing your home made frozen desserts
I like to freeze some of the Ice Dream in small jam jars to make single servings I can easily pull from the freezer to soften before serving. Just make sure to leave some air space at the top of the jar to allow the contents to expand in the freezer. I also freeze some in in 16-ounce cardboard containers that resemble pints of ice cream sold in stores....except these don't have labels. I buy Solo brand paper food containers at a store called Smart & Final. They come in packs of 25. The lids also come in packs. You can write the name of the contents and the date on the container with markers before filling. They're easy to stash in the freezer. I've kept some flavors stored in them for 3 or 4 months.

So here's one of my favorite Ice Dream flavors from my new cookbook, which by the way contains a lot more than frozen desserts. If it's cold where you live consider making the baked, stewed, or poached fruits, cookies, brownies, bars, and sauces that go well served over fruit, pancakes, or waffles.

Pumpkin Ice Dream   

Hands-on: 20 minutes/Churning: 20 to 25 minutes/Yield: 3 1/2 to 4 cups; 8 servings    

For best results, use sweet winter squash to make this pumpkin delight. No one will be the wiser and you'll find you need far less sweetener by making this simple swap.   Frozen squash or canned pumpkin (which often contains some squash) will work well, too.  Read labels to insure that you're buying solid-pack pumpkin rather than pumpkin pie mix; it should be free of added sweeteners or spices.  

This flavor pairs well with Avocado, Vanilla, Ginger, Cocoa, or Dark Chocolate Ice Dream, or it can be served with a drizzle of Chocolate, Fudge, or Caramel Sauce (See The Ice Dream Cookbook).

Note: If apple or pumpkin pie spice is not available, substitute 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon dried ginger powder, 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg, 1/4 teaspoon dried orange zest, and 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves.

Ingredients:
1/3 cup cool or cold filtered water
2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin or 3/4 teaspoon agar agar powder (not the flakes!)
1/4 cup honey or agavé nectar, or 1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons maple syrup; additional 2
tablespoons as needed
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon pure stevia extract powder or 1/2 to 1 teaspoon clear stevia extract
liquid (start with less; add more only if needed)
1/8 teaspoon finely ground, unrefined sea salt
1 1/2 teaspoons apple pie spice or pumpkin pie spice (see note above)
2 1/4 cups unsweetened, preservative-free coconut milk, such as Thai Kitchen (regular, not lite) thoroughly blended
1 cup baked or simmered, peeled and mashed winter squash made from Kabocha,
buttercup, butternut, honey delight, or carnival squash (See 10-24-08 blog post) or
frozen or canned pumpkin
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract or alcohol-free vanilla flavoring
2 tablespoons coconut rum or dark rum, optional

1. Add 1/3 cup orange juice to a small saucepan. Slowly sprinkle with gelatin or agar
agar powder. Let stand for 2 minutes until it softens and dry spots disappear. Warm
over medium-low heat, without stirring, until gelatin or agar agar dissolves. Scrape
the mixture into a blender, Vita-Mix, or food processor. Cover and process until
smooth.
2. Add honey, stevia, spice, and sea salt. Blend. Add coconut milk, pumpkin or squash,
and vanilla. Blend. For a sweeter taste, add an additional 1/8 teaspoon stevia and/or 1
tablespoon honey. Blend, taste, and repeat if needed.
3. Pour into one or more wide mouth jars. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours
before churning or chill in a bowl in an ice bath.
4. Scrape the chilled custard into the canister of your ice cream maker. Add the optional
rum. Churn according to the manufacturer's instructions.
5. Serve immediately or spoon into several 8- to 16-ounce containers. Cover and freeze
for 3 or more hours for a firmer texture.
6.  Soften solidly frozen dessert in the refrigerator for 45 minutes or on the counter for
20 to 30 minutes before serving.

1 serving (regular): 174 calories, 2 grams protein, 16 grams carbohydrate, 11 grams fat,
61 milligrams sodium

1 serving (half lite): 134 calories, 1 grams protein, 14 grams carbohydrate, 8 grams fat,
51 milligrams sodium

Variations:

* Lite Pumpkin Ice Dream: Replace half of the coconut milk with lite (reduced fat)
coconut milk. Alternatively, use 100% lite coconut milk, but plan to use the batch
immediately or within 24 hours before it becomes hard and icy.

* Pumpkin Orange Ice Dream: Zest 1 medium orange (colored part only) and set
aside. In step #1, replace 1/3 cup water with fresh orange juice. After sweetener has
been added to taste (step #2), stir in orange zest. Proceed as directed above.

* Chocolate Pumpkin Ice Dream: Add 1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder in step #2.  
Taste and adjust with an additional 1/4 teaspoon stevia extract powder or 1 to 2
tablespoons honey or maple syrup as needed.

* Pumpkin Nut Ice Dream: Add 1/2 cup toasted, coarsely chopped almonds, pecans,
or macadamia nuts (See The Ice Dream Cookbook) when Ice Dream reaches the soft-serve stage. Run
the machine for 1 or 2 more minutes. The calorie count will be slightly higher if using Pralined Pecans (See The Ice Dream Cookbook).

*  Pumpkin Ice Dream with Hazelnuts & Chocolate: Add 1/2 cup chopped, toasted
hazelnuts (skins removed as described on Page 000) to the machine when Ice Dream
reaches the soft-serve stage. Run the machine for 1 or 2 more minutes.

*  Pumpkin Pie Ice Dream: Fold 1 to 1 1/2 cups coarsely crumbled Gluten-Free
Graham crackers (See The Ice Dream Cookbook), commercial gluten-free honey Graham crackers, or
crumbled gluten-free ginger snaps into the Ice Dream before removing it from the
machine.

Source: The Ice Dream Cookbook: Dairy-Free Ice Cream Alternatives with Gluten-Free
Cookies, Compotes, and Sauces by Rachel Albert-Matesz (Planetary Press, 2008).

Winter Squash: The Great Pumpkin Imposter

Superfood: Winter squash 
Even if you eat copious quantities of vegetables, consider eating more winter squash––––more butternut, buttercup, kabocha, honey delight, delicata, sweet dumpling, carnival, and hubbard squash. Winter squash is an excellent source of betacarotene, vitamin C, potassium, fiber, and mangagnese. It is also a good source of folate, thiamin, vitamin B5, vitamin B6, niacin, and copper. The nutrients it contains will nourish your body, ward of disease, and slow the aging process.

Winter vs. summer squash, what's the difference?
Botanically winter squash falls into the fruit family, although most of us think of it as a vegetable. It belongs to the gourd family along with cucumbers. Unlike their summery cousins (zucchini, yellow, and patty pan squash), which have a soft skin and watery flesh and require refrigeration, winter squash have hard skin, firm flesh, and will keep for up to 6 months unbagged in a cool dry place at room temperature. 

How to store winter squash
Set winter squash on a mantle above the fire place, on shelves away from the heat of the oven or steam, in your living room, a spare bedroom, or in an attic, if you have one. If possible set them on butcher paper, newspaper, or packing paper and separate them so they don’t touch. You can crumple up paper and place it between them. Moisture can collect where they touch, which invites mold, particularly if left for more than a few weeks. Only refrigerate it after slicing or cooking. Use cut, uncooked squash within 5 days. After cooking and cooling, freeze what you don’t plan to use within 3 days.

How to shop for winter squash
Choose Hokkaido pumpkin, kabocha, buttercup, butternut, honey delight, sweet dumpling or carnival squash that feels heavy in relation to its size.  Kabocha, Hokkaido, and buttercup squash should have dark green skins; any spots should be bright orange, not pale or yellow. A ripe butternut squash will be orange all over with no hint of green.  It should have fairly smooth, unblemished skin. Store it at room temperature.

Winter squash wins the flavor race
Most varieties, if grown in nutrient rich soil and allowed to ripen and cure, will have a sweet, fruity flavor that can satisfy your sweet tooth in a  healthy way. You'll find some exceptions: spaghetti squash isn’t nearly as sweet as other kinds of winter squash. Sometimes butternuts, buttercups, and other normally sweet winter squashes come up short on flavor. You may occasionally get a dud, one that tastes bland and mealy. That's a good reason to bake more than you think you'll need. After you taste it, you can freeze whatever you don't think you will use within 3 days. At a later date you can turn it into a custard, pudding, pie filling, soup, bread, muffin, ice cream, or Ice Dream.

Subbing squash for pumpkin 
You can use winter squash in almost any dish from soup to dessert. Consider using winter squash in any recipe that calls for pumpkin––in cookies, cakes, breads, custards, puddings, pies, soups, and frozen desserts. Winter squash lends a satisfying, rich, and (usually) sweet taste to recipes and meals.

Rumor has it that most canned pumpkin actually contains winter squash, butternut to be exact! From a factual standpoint, winter squash is a more ecological food to grow.

Why use winter squash in place of pumpkin?
* It requires less water and less space to grow.
* It’s less susceptible to bugs.
* It produces a higher yield and has a longer shelf life.
* It’s usually lighter and easier to life.
* If you get as sweet one you can cut back on the amount of sweetener in recipes.
* You’ll find squash easier to cut than pumpkins.

By the way, no one will know if you use squash your pumpkin recipes.

These are carnival squash, baked cut side down, then turned flesh side up for serving. They taste similar to delicata and sweet dumpling squash. Notice the deep color and caramelization.

Basic Baked Squash Halves

Prep: 10 minutes/ Cooking: 30 to 45 minutes/ Yield: 4 to 8 servings

Baked squash is incredibly sweet if you pick the right variety and prepare it properly. It should be heavy for its size. The stem should be dry, and any markings on the skin should be deep, dark orange. Halved and baked cut side down, so they don’t dry out; with no foil, water, or cover, the natural sugars caramelize. If you get a dud, you can sweeten it with honey, agavé nectar, date sugar, or stevia and vanilla.             Leftovers are convenient and delicious warmed in a toaster oven. One sweet dumpling or delicata will yield about 1 cup of mashed squash and can stand in for potatoes or pumpkin in a meal or recipe.

Ingredients:
2 sweet dumpling, or delicata squash (1 1/2 to 1 3/4 pounds each) or 1 (3 to 3 1/2 pound) kabocha, Hokaido, buttercup, or butternut squash
Extra-virgin olive oil, clarified butter or unrefined coconut oil to grease pan, optional
Ground cinnamon or apple pie spice, optional
2 tablespoons unrefined coconut oil, flax oil, butter or 1/2 cup Fluffy Almond Butter (at the table), optional

1. Preheat oven to 350˚ F. Wash and scrub squash, leaving skin intact. Snap or cut stem off with  sturdy vegetable knife (I suggest a Mac, Caddie, or Santoku knive). Place squash on folded kitchen towel on cutting board. Rock sturdy vegetable or chef knife back and forth to press through squash. Discard seeds. Brush or mist cut sides with coconut or olive oil and dust with cinnamon or pie spice, if desired.
2. Arrange squash cut side down in 1 or 2 cake pans or rimmed baking sheets. (Baked cut side up your squash will dry out and then scream out for gobs of fat and sugar!)
3. Bake uncovered in the center of the oven until tender, easily pierced with fork, and slightly golden on the bottom, 30 to 40 minutes. Syrupy juices may ooze out during baking (this is why you want a baking pan with sides).
4. Quarter large squash halves. Garnish as desired and serve or cover and refrigerate. Reheat in a heat-proof dish in the toaster oven or serve at room temp in a pack lunch. Use leftovers within 3 days for optimal flavor and nutrition.

1/2 cup: 55 calories, 1 g protein, 11 g carbohydrate (4 g fiber), 1 g fat, 15 mg calcium, 1 mg sodium

Variations:

*   For Pumpkin or Squash Purée: Scoop out the baked squash flesh and discard the skin. Purée the flesh in a food processor or force it through a medium mesh sieve or the medium disk of a food mill.  Freeze what you don’t plan to use within 3 days.  

*   You can turn leftover squash into Squash Pudding Pie, Creamy Squash Bisque, or Tomato, Squash & Ginger Bisque (see The Garden of Eating for recipes) or Pumpkin Ice Dream, Pumpkin Spice Ice Dream Sandwich Cookies, or Pumpkin Pudding Pie (see The Ice Dream Cookbook).

Source: The Garden of Eating: A Produce-Dominated Diet & Cookbook by Rachel Albert-Matesz & Don Matesz (Planetary Press, 2004).

In Search of a Good Egg

If you read my last post, Cracking the Egg Myths, you already now that eggs contain many important nutrients. But which eggs should you buy? Not all eggs contain the same concentration of nutrients.

Can you guess which egg on the right came from 100% pasture-raised eggs and which one came from a natural foods store? 

The bright orange one! It contains the most antioxidants. It came from a chicken raised on irrigated pasture land in San Simon, AZ. I've never found a supermarket or natural foods store egg that comes close in flavor or color. 

Eggs are Only As Good as the Chicken 
Supermarket eggs are almost always factory farmed and of inferior-quality, flavor, and nutritional value. Dr. Artemis Simopoulos, Ph.D. author of The Omega Plan, showed, that Greek eggs (from hens fed fish meal) contained 6.6 milligrams of DHA (an essential fatty acid found in oily deep ocean fish, fish oil, wild game meats, and egg yolks) for every gram of yolk.  In contrast, regular supermarket eggs contained only 1.09 milligrams of DHA per gram of yolk. 

Hunting for the Most Nutritious Eggs   
If possible buy eggs directly from a small farmer that allows his or her chickens to scratch, root, and run around outside eating grubs, earthworms, grass, and larvae. The chickens enjoy the fresh air, sunlight, and room to socialize with their neighbors. This natural diet and lifestyle makes the chickens healthier and their eggs more nutritious. These eggs will contain more vitamins, including vitamins A and B12, and more antioxidants, including vitamin E and omega 3 essentail fatty acids, than battery raised  eggs. They will also have more color and flavor. Rad on for more about this.

Farmers who produce 100% grassfed or pasture-raised meats often raise and sell eggs. Some farmers’ markets and natural foods co-ops sell these eggs. Fir a link to farmers, farmers’ markets, and pasture-raised meat farmers in your click here: http://www.thegardenofeatingdiet.com/Links.asp

If you live in Arizona, contact Anya Owen at A Bar H Farm for some phenomenal eggs and grassfed meat and poultry. Please tell her Chef Rachel sent you!

Another Option
If you can’t find farm-fresh eggs from chickens raised on pasture or gardens, look for eggs produced by chickens fed special diets that usually contain ground flax seed meal, which increase the EPA and DHA content of the eggs. Look for labels that say “Omega-3” eggs or “DHA-rich eggs.”  Chicken are more efficient at converting the short chain alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) omega 3s into the long-chain omega 3 essential fatty acids eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA).

Humans require these long chain omega 3 esesential fatty acids for health of the brain, eyes, nervous and cardiovascular system.  Vegetable foods don’t supply them nor do conventional grain-fed, factory farmed animal products. The best sources include oily deep ocean fish (think wild salmon), truly pasture-raised meat, poultry, and eggs.  To learn more about omega 3s, check out The Garden of Eating: A Produce Dominated Diet & Cookbook by Rachel Albert-Matesz and Don Matesz.

What about organic eggs?
Organic eggs come from free-run or free-range fowl fed certified organic grains and soybeans; however they won’t contain high levels of omega 3s unless the chickens were fed a foods, such as flax seed meal, that increase the EPA and DHA content of their eggs.  So organic doesn’t guarantee that you’ll get the most nutritious eggs. You’re better off buying omega-3 eggs than organic eggs, although sometimes you can get a product with both labels.

What about fertile eggs?
Fertile eggs come from chickens that run with roosters. These eggs have more life force or qi (pronounced chee) because they have the potential to produce new life if allowed to incubate. But fertile eggs don’t inherently contain more vitamins or antioxidants. 

Does the color matter?
Different breeds of chickens produce eggs with different colored markings.  Colors may range from speckled brown to beige, cream to brown, and turquoise to green. Some may be white. White eggs are not inherently unnatural, although most free range eggs have more color to them and more variety in size than batter raised chicken eggs.

Signs of a good egg 
Nutrient-rich eggs from healthy, free-ranging birds have a tougher shell which is harder to crack. They have a firmer, brighter, more well rounded, golden orange yolk that rises up out of the whites and is harder to break than a conventional yolk. The healthier the chickens, the more nutritious, fragrant, and flavorful their eggs. The flavor will vary with the vegetation the chickens feed on.

Cracking The Egg Myths

Much Maligned Food
Eggs have taken a beating over the past 20 years. The poor yolk has been blamed for elevated cholesterol levels, atherosclerosis, heart disease, and more minor crimes. Yet there is little evidence that high quality, free range eggs are hazardous to human health.   

Egg yolks contain cholesterol and many people erroneously believe that eating cholesterol rich foods will elevate serum cholesterol levels. However, numerous studies have disproven this belief.  The famous Framingham Heart Study found that dietary cholesterol had no influence on serum cholesterol levels. Many other studies  have confirmed this. You can read more about this in The Garden of Eating or on the Cholesterol Critics web site.                               

The Gold Standard for Protein
Eggs contain a protein of such high value that they are used as the standard by which all other proteins are measured.  Eggs contain potassium, phosphorus, folic acid, pantothenic acid, vitamin B12, biotin, thiamine, niacin, the fat soluble vitamins A, D and E, the amino acid methionine, and, if the chickens or ducks are pasture-raised or fed flax seed meal, their eggs will contain an abundance of omega-3 essential fatty acids.

That Golden Yolk 
All of the vitamin A and D, 84% of the vitamin B12, 87% of the pantothenic acid, 81% of the folic acid, 92% of the calcium, 45% of the protein, and 23% of the potassium in an egg are concentrated in the yolk. The unsaturated fats, essential amino acids, folate and other B-vitamins in eggs may even help raise HDL levels.

The Whole of It
Nutrients in egg yolks help you digest and assimilate the whites, and vice-versa.  Vitamin A in the yolk improves the assimilation of protein.  Lecithin in the yolk aids in the assimilation and metabolism of the fat and cholesterol. Choline in the white emulsifies fats in the yolk.  These fat soluble nutrients also carry vitamins A and D into your cells. Lecithin and other phospholipids in the yolk emulsify fats, keeping them suspended in your blood and body fluids and along with cholesterol they are vital constituents of cell membranes. Eating foods rich in natural phospholipids help to maintain the health and integrity of your cell membranes. Many symptoms of age-related decline found in modern people could be the result of insufficient phospholipids, due to an insufficient intake of nourishing animal-source foods such as egg yolks.  

Frequency of Use
Although many health organizations caution against eating more than three eggs per week, there is absolutely no scientific justification for such restriction.  Researchers have noted an inverse relationship between egg consumption and death from heart disease.  A 1996 analysis of world wide of egg consumption found that France, Spain, and Japan all have a high per capita consumption of eggs along with the lowest rates of death from heart disease! 

Source: The Garden of Eating: A Produce-Dominated Diet & Cookbook by Rachel Albert-Matesz & Don Matesz (Planetary Press, 2004)

Herb Scrambled Eggs/Herbed Omelet 
Prep: 4 minutes/ Cooking: 4 minutes/ Yield: serves    

This is my master recipe for making omelets and scrambled eggs. I always add herbs and spices for health benefits and great flavors. I almost always include the spice turmeric because it provides antioxidants that blocks the production of inflammatory prostaglandins (hormone-like substances) in the body. Turmeric also stimulates bile flow, which helps with fat digestion. I recommend incorporating herbs and spices into every meal.

 Note: If you’re cooking for more than two people, cook the eggs in batches. For more protein, figure 3 eggs per person, add the optional eggs whites, or an ounce or two of leftover fish, poultry, or lean meat to each plate. Reduce the recipe by one-half if cooking for one.

 To complete the meal, I add a generous serving of cooked dark leafy greens (kale, collards, mustard or turnip greens, bok choy, brussels sprouts, broccoli or some other) to each plate and a colorful raw or cooked fruit. Sometimes I include a warm brown rice tortilla, cooked quinoa, potato, or I swap the fruit for baked or roasted sweet potato, yam, or winter squash.

Ingredients:
4 medium to large chicken eggs or duck eggs
1/3 to 1/2 cup liquid egg whites or 2 additional eggs, optional
2 tablespoons chicken stock or broth, nut milk, or raw milk (if you use dairy)
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric 
1/4 teaspoon freeze dried garlic granules or 1 clove of pressed garlic
1/4 teaspoon chipotlé or ground black pepper or lemon pepper

2 teaspoons ghee, clarified butter, Spectrum Vegetable Shortening, palm shortening, or extra-virgin coconut oil

1. Crack the eggs into a small bowl (stash the shells in the freezer and use them when making broth or stock). Add the optional egg whites, broth or stock, turmeric, garlic, and pepper. Whisk briefly to combine. 

2. Heat oil in a 10-inch slope-sided skillet over medium-high flame until hot but not smoking. Tilt skillet to completely coat the bottom and sides. Whisk eggs again.

3.  Select a cooking method.

    For an omelet: Pour egg mixture into skillet. Reduce heat to medium or medium-low. As eggs begin to set up, almost immediately, push cooked portion toward center with a metal spatula and tilt pan to allow uncooked portion run underneath. Repeat until eggs no longer run. Remove from heat when eggs begin to firm up yet still appear glossy and moist, about 3 to 4 minutes. Gently lift and fold 1 side of the omelet over the other.

     For a scramble: Add whisked eggs to the hot skillet and reduce heat to medium-low. As eggs begin to set up, push the cooked portion aside with a wooden spoon or metal spatula and tilt  pan to allow uncooked eggs run underneath. Break up curds as they form, until eggs are cooked through but still glossy and moist, about 3 to 4 minutes.

4.  Remove from heat and transfer eggs to serving plates. Serve with at least twice as much vegetables or vegetables and fruit.

2 medium eggs: 140 calories, 12 g protein, 3 g carbohydrate, 9 g fat, 53 mg calcium, 110 mg sodium

2 large eggs: 159 calories, 12 g protein, 3 g carbohydrate, 10 g fat, 59 mg calcium, 126 mg sodium

Variations:

*  Smoky Scrambled Eggs/Omelet with Chipotlé: Omit garlic; add 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon ground chipotlé and 1/4 teaspoon Wright’s Liquid Hickory Smoke Seasoning (the only brand I’ve found that doesn’t contain sugar, colorings, MSG, preservatives, or additives). 

*  Turmeric & Cumin Scrambled Eggs/Omelet: Replace garlic with ground cumin; reduce pepper to 1/8 teaspoon.

*  Tarragon-Chive Scrambled Eggs/Omelet: Omit turmeric and garlic; add 1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon or 1/2 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon leaves, plus 1/2 teaspoon dried or 1/2 tablespoon minced fresh chives.  

*  Garlic-Chive Scrambled Eggs/Omelet: Omit turmeric; add 1 teaspoon dried or 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives. Use black or white (rather than red) pepper.

*  For more variations refer to The Garden of Eating.

Source: Recipe modified from The Garden of Eating: A Produce-Dominated Diet & Cookbook by Rachel Albert-Matesz & Don Matesz (Planetary Press, 2004)